In this article, we’ll look at how to lay tiles on wood floors.
Floor tiles are a very comfortable and durable material. There are usually no problems with laying tiles on the floor in an apartment. With rare exceptions, in multi-storey buildings, the base of the floor is a concrete screed. Tiles can be easily laid on it. Adhesive mixtures have come to replace cement mortars, which were difficult to cope with.
Laying tiles on a wooden floor
- Preparatory work
- Method 1 – wood floor in very good condition
- Method 2 – wooden in poor condition – we make a screed
- Method 3 – a wooden floor in an unsatisfactory condition – we do without a screed
- Selection, calculation and laying of tiles
With their help, the tile flooring can be laid without even having the skills. Problems arise in private houses, where wooden floors are most often equipped.
And if in the rooms you can still do with linoleum or carpet, then in the bathroom and in the kitchen it is very difficult to do without tiles.
The use of tiles as a floor covering in a private house (especially in the kitchen and in the bathroom) is also justified by the fact that a water or electric warm floor can be installed under it, which will significantly reduce the cost of heating the house.
The tile has a number of other advantages:
- Durability – the service life of a tiled floor is several times higher than that of linoleum;
- fire resistance – the tile does not burn, and in the event of a spark, it will not allow the fire to ignite. The quality of the coating is especially important where there will be frequent movements of people – in the corridor, in the kitchen at the stove and in the bathroom;
- Resistance to stress – the physical values of the load that can be applied to the tile without the risk of damage are enormous and cannot be realized in a private house. The requirements for sustainability in living conditions in the premises of people are much lower. So, furniture on tiles can be moved without fear of damaging its coating. A heavy cabinet will not push through the tiles, like, for example, linoleum, on which you would have to install a gasket under the furniture legs. In the bathroom, you can place a shower cabin on the tiles;
- Ease of cleaning – unlike laminate flooring, tile flooring can be cleaned without fear of leakage. In the bathroom, where there are risks of accidental water spillage, tiles reliably protect the floor.
We will study whether it is possible to lay tiles on a wooden floor, how to prevent a situation when you have to redo all the work.
To put it bluntly, a wooden subfloor is in no way suitable for placing floor tiles. The tree tends to “play”, dry out or, conversely, rot from moisture.
It is not difficult to guess what will happen to the tiles.
Laying tiles on a wooden floor is only possible after providing a solid waterproofing layer that is not exposed to both from below and from above.
What such a layer should consist of and how to put it correctly depends on the condition of the wooden floor.
Since we will have to carry out a partial dismantling, consider the components of the wooden floor.
The top layer is linoleum, carpet or laminate, under which the substrate is located. As a backing layer can be used “marshmallow” – a soft warming substrate and fiberboard.
The essence of this layer is to neutralize the unevenness of the subfloor, which consists of boards laid on logs.
Before laying the tiles, the base must be checked and prepared. Let’s consider three ways of carrying out preparatory work.
Method 1 – wood floor in very good condition
Applying this method, it is necessary to choose – either to dismantle the finishing floor, and put chipboard plates on the rough floor, or put the plates immediately on the finishing floor.
This largely depends on the height of the ceiling (dismantling the floor will increase the height of the canvas, but on the other hand, it will deepen the floor) and the desire of the owner of the house to disassemble the floor.
Both options are perfectly acceptable. We lay the chipboard plates so that they are on the same level. The difference of 3-4 mm is not critical if you plan to install large tiles.
The cracks between the wall and the slab must be insulated with any sealant (you can use polyurethane foam) flush with the level of the slab.
Then we treat the surface with linseed oil twice or any ready-made impregnation, applying it according to the instructions. Our goal is to achieve a waterproofing film on the slab surface.
Warming up drying oil, be extremely careful – it is a very fire hazardous agent.
Now on the chipboard you need to apply a sufficiently thick layer of latex, on which to spread the masking net.
Immediately after the latex has hardened, we fix the mesh to the slab using a construction stapler or wood screws. We apply a liquid glass solution on the surface of the plate.
It can be used according to the instructions or you can take water, liquid glass and coarse sand in a 1: 2: 2 ratio. The dried liquid glass will be the basis for laying the tiles.
This method can be used without dismantling the wooden floor only when there is confidence in the quality of the subfloor.
Method 2 – wooden in poor condition – we make a screed
This method is suitable for a situation where the floorboards creak somewhere else, but somewhere they have already sunk. To install the tiles correctly, you cannot do without dismantling.
Rather, we remove the floor covering, replace the rough beams where necessary. We align them in one level, cover with impregnation and prepare under the screed.
Since direct contact of cement and wood leads to rotting of the latter and is unacceptable, it is necessary to provide a waterproof base of the screed.
On top of the leveled sub-floor we put any insulation (it can be either dense polyethylene or expanded polystyrene plates), on top of which we lay a construction mesh for reinforcement.
Now we produce high-quality waterproofing of cracks in any convenient way and cover with a screed.
For the screed, you can use cement mortar or a self-leveling floor, depending on your preference.
Only after the poured mortar has completely dried (according to the instructions for a self-leveling floor and 8-10 days for a concrete screed), you can lay ceramic tiles.
Method 3 – a wooden floor in an unsatisfactory condition – we do without a screed
In order to properly prepare the floor in this case, it is necessary to dismantle the top coat, underlay and sub-floor.
Since there will be a non-breathable layer of glue and tiles on top, it is necessary to insulate the logs from moisture.
The joint between the wall and the floor below the lag is closed with a thick layer of insulation, and when it dries, we cover it with completely dry expanded clay.
Across the lag, we fasten the boards of the preliminary rough floor, on which the substrate will be installed.
It is allowed to leave small gaps between the sub-floor boards. As a substrate, you can use gypsum fiber sheets or cement-bonded particle boards, no more than 2 cm thick.
The slabs are primed twice, after which the tiles can be laid.
Preparatory work can be done in any of three ways. All of them will allow the layer that is one level below the tile covering to become even and hard.
Based on the situation and financial possibilities, you can think over and implement your own version of the insulation of the tree used for the lower floor, and the organization of a dense, not prone to cracking, pre-assembly layer.
In this case, the following principles should be adhered to:
- cement should not come into contact with wood;
- all surfaces are leveled;
- high-quality gap insulation is provided;
- the layer on which the tiles are laid must be firm and not allow subsidence.
Selection, calculation and laying of tiles
For the bathroom, it is important to choose non-slip corrugated ceramic tiles. In a small bathroom or kitchen, large tiles on the floor will visually reduce the area.
For a bathroom, floor tiles should be chosen to match the wall tiles. Let’s calculate the required number of tiles.
To do this, we will measure the area of the room and decide whether we will lay it in order or obliquely.
Ordinary laying is the most economical; to calculate the number of tiles, add 10-15% to the area of the room.
When stacking diagonally, there will be more scraps, this method is more complicated and requires certain skills.
Since the opposite walls of the room may not be clearly parallel to each other (even a one-degree deviation will significantly affect the laying of the tiles), we will derive the median angle.
To do this, mark the middle on each wall and lower the perpendicular to the opposite side.
Ideally, the midpoint of the wall coincides with the end of the perpendicular. We will start laying from the middle to the corners, focusing on the lines drawn.
In this case, all irregularities and cutting edges will either be hidden under the furniture standing near the wall, or covered with a baseboard.
Usually, the tile manufacturer recommends in the instructions which glue to use for masonry. We recommend using cement glue in all three cases when laying tiles.
A certain distance must be left between adjacent tiles. To do this, when laying near the corners of the tiles, insert “crosses”.
After the glue solution has completely dried, they can be removed, and the gaps can be filled with a layer of plaster using a spatula. After the plaster dries, it is smoothed out to smooth out possible protrusions.
If a colored plaster of a suitable color is used, then you can apply a finishing coat with a thin brush along the seams.
If white plaster was used and this is in disharmony with the color of the ceramic floor, then it is worth using a colored grout, and then go through the topcoat along the seams.
Step-by-step instructions for laying tiles on a wooden floor are shown in the video.
As we saw in the video, laying tiles on a wooden floor is possible when carrying out preliminary work with a backing layer.
The considered technology makes it easy to lay ceramic tiles on a wooden base. published by econet.ru
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