September is just around the corner and now you need to think about what work in the garden in September to be done.
So, let’s start with the most common garden crop – apples. At this time, a massive harvest of apples of autumn varieties is carried out, and at the end of the month we need to start picking the most valuable winter varieties for us.
What to do on the site in September
For storage, you need to select fruits that do not have scratches and dents, without damage to the skin and pulp by the apple moth and sawfly. Apples intended for storage must be collected in boxes, carefully wrapping each fruit in paper, or the apples must be cut with paper. Autumn varieties of apples lie in the storehouse for 60 – 80 days, and winter varieties – 120 – 210 days. Freshly harvested fruits cannot be immediately placed in the basement. For several days, boxes with fruits must be held under a canopy, or in a shed, in order for the fruits to cool as much as possible. Only after such preliminary cooling, early in the morning, apples should be brought into the basement. It is advisable to ventilate the store at night in order to reduce the temperature as much as possible due to the cold night air. Read on for a detailed article on how to store apples in winter.
After the harvest of apples is harvested, it is necessary to remove the trapping belts from the boles of the apple trees and burn them, and the bark of the trees should be carefully examined, to destroy the nests with cocoons of the codling moth, as well as other pests.
Having chosen a wet day, you need to use a frequent iron brush or scraper to clean off the dead bark both on the boles and on the bases of the skeletal branches. Lay burlap or plastic under the tree.
Since at the end of October we have to whitewash the boles, before that we need to close up all the cracks with garden pitch, clean the hollows and disinfect them with 3% copper sulfate, or 5% iron sulfate, or a nitrafen solution.
Until about September 10-15, you need to plant seedlings of garden strawberries, and 7-14 days after planting, check if the heart of our seedlings is buried. If this happens, it must be raised to ground level. The soil around the plant should be squeezed tightly. After September 15, I do not advise planting strawberry seedlings, since they do not take root well and a larger percentage of them will die in winter.
In September, currant seedlings are dug up, currant and gooseberry cuttings are also separated from the mother bushes (see how to plant gooseberries) and planted in a permanent place.
In September, you can already start pruning and shaping our favorite berry bushes. You need to start by cutting out broken branches from adult gooseberry and currant bushes. You also need to shorten those branches that are in contact with the soil. In 6 – 8 year old and older black currant bushes, 2 – 3 of the most obsolete branches should be removed by cutting them out with a hacksaw at the very base.
They need to be replaced with three to four strong young branches of this year’s growth, which branch off from the base of adult branches or grew from the soil (that is, from the underground part of our bush). In bushes of white, red, pomegranate and pink currants, the branches are more durable, therefore, all annual young growths that have formed at the base of the bush in the current year should be removed from these plants, while leaving one, the strongest branch.
Similar work needs to be done on gooseberry bushes. This plant is prone to self-thickening, therefore, all small branches need to be cut.
For sea buckthorn in the crown, it is also necessary to cut off all dry branches, before the beginning of leaf fall, the same must be done in the crowns of plums and cherries.
Autumn pruning is preferable because in the spring, our brother gardener, it is much more difficult to identify dead twigs, and in the fall they are very clearly visible.
Until mid-September, cuttings of black currant are planted (see propagation of black currant by cuttings). You can also start digging the root layers of our favorite – raspberries, sprouted far from the main row, and then transplant them to another new place. (See the article on how to grow raspberries). At the same time, in order to exclude the possibility of destruction of a clod of earth and damage to the root system, you need to water the soil around the bush, compact it with your foot, and then cut out the soil with a seedling with a shovel from four sides.
At the end of September, you need to start tilting the raspberry shoots to the ground. To do this, it is necessary to tilt the branches by 30-40 centimeters to the soil surface and tie them with twine. For an ordinary planting of raspberries with a distance of 1×1 meter, two adjacent bushes should be tilted one to the other and tied. It is very convenient to tilt raspberries in the aisles using a rail 3.5 – 4 meters long. This rail is reinforced with metal studs near the ground.
And yet, the most important and significant work in the garden in September is the mass planting of berry bushes, and at the end of September – the planting of plums, cherries, apple trees, pears, sea buckthorns, and black chokeberries.
This month, the compost heap is maximized with various organic materials.
An important point is the preparation of the strapping material, which will protect the apple trees from rodents. For this, stalks of sunflower, reed, blackberry, raspberry are suitable. You can also use spruce branches, roofing felt, roofing felt and other materials.
A few words about work in the flower garden: lilies can be dug up, divided and planted at this time, tulips can be planted at the end of September.
If frosts are expected, dahlias must be covered with cloth sheets or foil.
Also in September, you need to think about the seeds of flower crops for future periods. At this time, they are dried and put away for winter storage. published by econet.ru
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